When my dermatologist told me that she was going to prescribe tretinoin for my cystic acne, I couldn’t help but feel giddy — I couldn’t wait to start using the magical cream that I’d heard so much about. One because I’m fascinated about it’s “anti-aging” effects, and two so that I can finally have clear skin again. I constantly say to myself, “I’m too old for this. I’m too old to have pimples.”
So what is it?
Retin-A or tretinoin (Retin-A is just the brand name), is a vitamin A derivative that has been proven effective at a cellular level since the 1960’s when it was originally developed for acne treatment¹. Retinoic acid (aka tretinoin) is a “retinoid” which is the generic term for all vitamin A derivatives. There are a few derivatives which I’ll talk more about in another post: retinoic acid, retinaldehyde or retinal, retinol, retinol esters, and a few others. Tretinoin is FDA approved and only available with a prescription in the US. With decades of evidence-based research behind it, retinoids are an amazing skincare option proven to work.
How It Works
The majority of skin aging is caused by the sun, and UV exposure breaks down the collagen in our skin, losing its firmness and elasticity. Tretinoin works by increasing the rate of cell turnover and collagen production in the skin which in turn thickens your skin over time and maintains a youthful look. As an added bonus, tretinoin also helps fade age spots and hyperpigmentation.
Sounds amazing right? Sign me up! There are a few things to note though:
It takes time to adjust.
You have to be consistent.
It takes time to see results.
Tretinoin concentrations range from as low as .01% to .1%. I’m starting with .025% and slowly working my way up if I need it. It takes a long period of consistent use to see results, especially the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. It will probably take 3–6 months to see any changes to my acne and 6 months to a year to see any improvements in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (marks left from acne). So stick with it for the long haul because it’s worth it.
My Experience So Far
Right now, I’m planning on slowly integrating tretinoin into my skincare routine twice a week for two weeks carefully observing how my skin reacts. After speaking with a few dermatologists (I swear I talk to my dermatologist more than some of my friends), I figured this was the best way to start: One little dab for the whole face after moisturizer. So far, no irritation at all, even though both nights I was fearful I was going to wake up looking like a beet.
Week 2
Week two is done. On my third application, I totally spaced during my nighttime routine and put it directly on my skin (Nooooo.) I debated washing it off but it’s expensive and with such a small tube, I didn’t want to waste any. I applied extra moisturizer on top and crossed my fingers that I wouldn’t have to go to work tomorrow looking like a lobster.
Tretinoin usually takes some getting used to — it is an acid after all. My whole plan was to ease it into my skincare routine and apply it over moisturizer so it absorbs gradually and acts as a buffer between my skin. It doesn’t make the medication less effective, just more gentle. I woke up Sunday morning after applying it directly to my skin and all was well. I didn’t notice any irritation, just a little dryness, and I made sure to apply extra moisturizer and sunscreen while on a hike that day. If all goes well, I plan to continually add one more night of application into my routine for two weeks at a time.
More to come soon with another update, and a more in-depth post on retinoids and why it is the one skincare trend here to stay.
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